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Trango 08 - The Team
In August the Trango team of Jerry Gore, Gaz Parry, Denis Roy, Pierre Muller, David Kaszlikowski and Eliza Kubarska set to the Trango towers. Click on a name for more info... |
Jerry Gore - Leader, Big Wall climber, alpinist, cameraman, Type1 Diabetic, 46 years, British
One of the UK's leading expedition climbers over a 25 year career. New routes on 6, 7, and 8,000m. peaks across the Himalaya and South America. A Big Wall expert with first ascents of alpine big walls in Patagonia, the Pamirs, the Bugaboos, Baffin Island and Greenland. In 2000 he led the first successful ascent of Low’s Gully Wall, which achieved a world first in live streaming the action direct onto the Internet. Widely known in the outdoor world, Jerry has written regularly for the specialist press since the mid 1980’s. An insulin-dependent Type 1 diabetic, Jerry has successfully incorporated dealing with this medical condition into his busy life, and contributes actively through articles in diabetic journals, lectures to schools and diabetic groups, and as a speaker for international seminars.
Gaz Parry - Free Big Wall climber, 35 yrs, British
Climbing since the age of 12, and a full-time professional since 2000, Gaz Parry has been involved in most forms of rock-climbing, and always at the highest level, including The first onsight of the 8 pitch "Always The Sun" 7c+ in Madagascar. He has excelled at sport, trad, and big wall, and has been a fixture on the UK competition circuit since 1989. He is currently most actively involved on the bouldering circuit, with some very impressive results including British Bouldering Champion in 2002, 2007 and British Leading Champion 1996, 2006, 2007 and 2008. He is currently ranked within the top 10 in the World at international bouldering competitions including 3rd at the UIAA World Cup in 2004. Gaz runs the bouldering wall, BoulderUK, in Blackburn and is sponsored by TNF, DMM, and 5.10
Denis Roy - Free Big Wall rock climber, Alpinist, Cameraman, Film Producer, 45 yrs, French
One of France’s very best on-sight Free Big Wall climbers, Denis’ lists of first ascents and on-sights is world class. They include FA’s in the Ak Su Valley, Kirghizstan, first on-sight ascents in a day of Always the Sun (400m. 7c+) and Gondwanaland (800m. 7c+) in the Tsaranoro Massif, Madagascar; first onsight ascent of Diedre Agresti (400m. 7a+) ,Hoggar; numerous free routes up to 7c, 400m. including “Shoukran” in Taghia, Morocco; new routes including “Up” (360m. 7c) plus first onsights' in Zion Park, Utah, USA. His climbing grade onsight is a consistent 7c+/8a, and he redpoints' to 8b/c. Denis is also a talented climbing film producer and cameraman. His productions include Sahara Vertical and Madagasikara – nominated for 7 festival awards, and 3 citations. See the TotemPole Website
Pierre Muller - I.F.M.G.A. Mountain Guide, Medical Doctor (GP), Alpinist and Free Big Wall Rock Climber, 36 yrs, French
A fully qualified IFMGA guide and a qualified medical doctor who also just happens to be an elite level Big Wall rock climber. His list of ascents include numerous free rock climbs in Jordan and a rare repeat of “The Missing Mountain” in the Ak Su Valley, Kirghizstan; numerous alpine routes inc. the Eiger N.Face, Ailefroide, Matterhorn (winter – Zmutt Nose free), and Les Drus North Face (winter); first onsight ascents and in one day of Always the sun (400m. 7c+) and Gondwanaland (800m. 7c+), Tsaranoro Massif, Madagascar; Diedre Agresti (400m. 7a+) first onsight, Hoggar; numerous expeditions to the Nepalese Himalaya – search and rescue missions, new routes and local sherpa mountain training; N. Ridge of Garet El Djenoun, Tisalatine (ED, 250m., 7a), Algiers. In addition Pierre has made Climbing/Odyssey/Sailing Expeditions to India, Burma, Thailand, Greece, Corsica, Central Asia, Senegal, and the Burkina Fasso.
Boyan Petrov - High-altitude mountaineer, Type1 Diabetic, 35yrs, Bulgarian
A research Biologist for the Natural History Museum in Sofia, Boyan, originally one of Bulgaria’s leading Cave developers with a first descent list of over 350 caves and potholes, has turned his attentions, since the late 1990’s to the Greater Ranges. In a very short period of time has become one of the leading East European High Altitude climbers. His list of ascents include Broad peak (8047m, Pakistan – 13th highest in the world); Lenin (7134m, Kyrgystan) solo; Aconcagua (6962m, Argentina) solo; Denali (6195m, USA) solo; E and W Elbrus (5621/5642m, Russia) solo; K2 (8611 m, Pakistan, second highest peak in the world) via the Abruzzi Spur; Khan Tengri (6995m, Kazakhstan) via Salomatov Route. Boyan is unfortunately not on the expedition due to injury but his input has been invaluable in organising the logistics. David Kaszlikowski - Alpinist, Explorer, Photographer, Polish
Born in Warsaw, Poland (1973) . Kaszlikowski is one of the most renown climbers on polish mountaineering scene. He combines difficult climbing (up to 8b/b+ RP, 7c+ OS, M 10+) with traveling. His main objective is exploration of big walls in remote mountain areas. His most interesting expeditions and new routes: Taghia Cirque – High Atlas Mountains , Morocco. New routes: “Barracuda” (7c+ max, 7a oblig. 600m)(most of the route is harder than French 7 – route so far, unrepeated). “Fantasia” (7b+/c , 750m - one of the longest routes in Atlas Mounts., opened ground up only by two climbers , David and Eliza Kubarska. Miyar ,Himalaya Expedition – first ascent of virgin tower, new route. Kaszlikowski and his partner climbed virgin tower, opening 750 meters long route(VIII-, 70 ice). They named “their” peak – Lotos. Mexico - Basaseachic National Park – “subinedo el arcoiris’ ( 8a max, 300m, RP) Huasteca National Park - new multipitch route, “Arte de malaria’ (7b+max, 300m, RP) Alaska , Kichatna expedition.Team of three climbers created new big wall line in the remote mountains of Kichatna, Alaska. Team spent almost two weeks on the wall (portaledges), climbing one of the most difficult Alaskan routes . “The Last Cry of the Butterfly”( VI, A4/C3, VII, ice/snow 70 degrees) route is ca.1150 m( 3700 feet) long. Mali -Desert Towers - new route “ Royaume de Vautour” (450m, diff.7b , Suri Tondo, Hand of Fatima massif)Ha-Long Bay , Vietnam. The fifth climbing crew ever to explore the bay. They created new rock climbing sector, routes up to 7c+(French grade scale). Greenland - new route one the world’s highest sea cliff (2000m,7a+max,1xAF(rest point), OS, 5 bolts, no-portaledge), Second team standing on the peak of Maujit Qaqarssuasia ever. Extremely small team (David and Eliza) spend one month alone, kayaking without any support from the land. Photograher and writer: David is also well known outdoor photographer. He has his cover stories published in Rock and Ice, Alpinist, Grimper, Vertical, Gory, Desnivel and features in American Alpine Journal, UP- European Climbing Report, Climbing Magazine, Montagnes Magazine, Escalar. His colorful (music, movies, photos) multimedia slideshows were presented at biggest outdoor festivals. Kaszlikowski works also as a photographer for National Geographic Traveler magazine. Awards: Nominated to Piolet D’Or Award. Received “KOLOS” award in category alpinism and numerous nominations and special mentions for explorations in 2004, 2005, 2006. Nominated to prestigious National Geographic TRAVELERY award in “expedition of the year” category (2006,2007). In 2007, he and Eliza Kubarska received most prestigious polish mountaineering award JEDYNKA – for their new route and expedition in Greenland. Links: Eliza Kubarska - Alpinist, Filmmaker, Artist, Polish
Eliza Kubarska is one of the best polish female climbers. She is one of the few women in the world who open new big wall routes in remote wild areas of our planet. Her expeditions were presented in world biggest outdoor magazines as National Geographic, Rock and Ice, Vertical, Grimper,Gory, Desnivel.... In last decade Eliza focused on bigger mountain walls but she’s still avid sport climber doing hard routes up to 7c OS and 8a RP. She was also Polish Champion in speed climbing in youth category. Today she’s a guide and climbing teacher. She founded Climbing school “only for the girls” in Warsaw where she lives. Her most important expeditions includes new routes in Greenland , Mexico, Mali, Morocco-Taghia, Jordan where she opened new multi-pitch routes in a small team with David Kaszlikowski. (bigger list of routes at David’s CV) Awards: Her last year Greenland expedition received prestigous alpinist Grand Prix – Jedynka for the “most important ascent of the year,in Poland. Team received also: special mention during KOLOSY festival, and prestigious nomination to National Geographic TREVELER award , in “Expedition of the year” category. Filmmaker and artist She’s graduated at Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw (sculpture and video art). Her works were presented at prestigious National gallery in Poland, she received grant of Ministry of Culture and Art, for video-art project. |

One of the UK's leading expedition climbers over a 25 year career. New routes on 6, 7, and 8,000m. peaks across the Himalaya and South America. A Big Wall expert with first ascents of alpine big walls in Patagonia, the Pamirs, the Bugaboos, Baffin Island and Greenland. In 2000 he led the first successful ascent of Low’s Gully Wall, which achieved a world first in live streaming the action direct onto the Internet. Widely known in the outdoor world, Jerry has written regularly for the specialist press since the mid 1980’s. An insulin-dependent Type 1 diabetic, Jerry has successfully incorporated dealing with this medical condition into his busy life, and contributes actively through articles in diabetic journals, lectures to schools and diabetic groups, and as a speaker for international seminars.
Climbing since the age of 12, and a full-time professional since 2000, Gaz Parry has been involved in most forms of rock-climbing, and always at the highest level, including The first onsight of the 8 pitch "Always The Sun" 7c+ in Madagascar. He has excelled at sport, trad, and big wall, and has been a fixture on the UK competition circuit since 1989. He is currently most actively involved on the bouldering circuit, with some very impressive results including British Bouldering Champion in 2002, 2007 and British Leading Champion 1996, 2006, 2007 and 2008. He is currently ranked within the top 10 in the World at international bouldering competitions including 3rd at the UIAA World Cup in 2004. Gaz runs the bouldering wall, BoulderUK, in Blackburn and is sponsored by TNF, DMM, and 5.10
One of France’s very best on-sight Free Big Wall climbers, Denis’ lists of first ascents and on-sights is world class. They include FA’s in the Ak Su Valley, Kirghizstan, first on-sight ascents in a day of Always the Sun (400m. 7c+) and Gondwanaland (800m. 7c+) in the Tsaranoro Massif, Madagascar; first onsight ascent of Diedre Agresti (400m. 7a+) ,Hoggar; numerous free routes up to 7c, 400m. including “Shoukran” in Taghia, Morocco; new routes including “Up” (360m. 7c) plus first onsights' in Zion Park, Utah, USA. His climbing grade onsight is a consistent 7c+/8a, and he redpoints' to 8b/c. Denis is also a talented climbing film producer and cameraman. His productions include Sahara Vertical and Madagasikara – nominated for 7 festival awards, and 3 citations. See the
A fully qualified IFMGA guide and a qualified medical doctor who also just happens to be an elite level Big Wall rock climber. His list of ascents include numerous free rock climbs in Jordan and a rare repeat of “The Missing Mountain” in the Ak Su Valley, Kirghizstan; numerous alpine routes inc. the Eiger N.Face, Ailefroide, Matterhorn (winter – Zmutt Nose free), and Les Drus North Face (winter); first onsight ascents and in one day of Always the sun (400m. 7c+) and Gondwanaland (800m. 7c+), Tsaranoro Massif, Madagascar; Diedre Agresti (400m. 7a+) first onsight, Hoggar; numerous expeditions to the Nepalese Himalaya – search and rescue missions, new routes and local sherpa mountain training; N. Ridge of Garet El Djenoun, Tisalatine (ED, 250m., 7a), Algiers. In addition Pierre has made Climbing/Odyssey/Sailing Expeditions to India, Burma, Thailand, Greece, Corsica, Central Asia, Senegal, and the Burkina Fasso.